Madeira Island Life
Welcome to Madeira, Portugal!
My handsome husband and wandering partner loves island life. In fact, our very first trip together was to the island of Saint Martin in the Caribbean. So it’s no wonder that Madeira captured his attention when planning our vacation for 2023.
Technically part of Portugal, Madeira is an island situated in the Atlantic Ocean, roughly 300 miles off the coast of Morocco. A one-hour flight from Lisbon, Madeira felt like a world apart. Lisbon was gray and rainy, Madeira was warm and tropical. After landing in Funchal - the capital of Madeira - we checked into our home-away-from home for the week, Pestana Palms. We had an ocean-view room and enjoyed evening happy hours and our morning coffee listening to the sound of the waves.
Our first full day on island, we decided to embrace the beautiful weather and take a catamaran ride on the Atlantic Ocean. It must have a been a good day, because we were blessed with the company of some bottlenose dolphins, a couple of bryde whales, and a pod or two of pilot whales!
After the boat ride, we wandered the cute cobblestone streets of Old Town Funchal. We ate bolo do caco (a typical Portuguese bread with garlic butter); we cooled off with some sweet gelato; we sampled a flight of local Poncha; and Todd tried scabbard fish with passion fruit and banana sauce! All… so… good.
While we like to walk, getting anywhere on the island, outside of Funchal, required more than a walk so we rented a car. A bit of advice… Driving on Madeira was a bit of an adventure itself. One day we putted in first gear, slowly up the steep, winding road to Pico do Arieiro, not sure we’d make it. Another day we were dodging cows and cars and buses. That said, I’m so glad we decided to brave the island roads.
After an early morning run where I reveled in the sights and sounds of the island waking up, we headed along the southern coast to the Cabo Girão Skydeck. Oh, the views! Standing on a clear deck, looking 589 meters straight down a cliff, is no joke. The sky was a beautiful blue with wispy white clouds and the ocean seemed to go on forever.
After Cabo Girão, we drove down to Camara de Lobos - a little fishing village - and wandered around before settling down for a snack. We saw the Titanic (a little dingy anchored in the cove); Todd terrorized me by climbing up the lava rock wall , tempting Poseidon and the ocean waves; and we found a cute little alleyway filled with cafes and recycled art. On the recommendation of our waiter, we tried Nikita - another drink native to Madeira - and a dish consisting of fried potatoes, polenta and scabbard fish. I was enjoying the taste until I saw a picture of the unfortunate fish I was eating... Those teeth!!!
Back at our room, we enjoyed sitting on the patio, listening to the ocean waves and a nearby saxophone playing, while drinking a glass of Porto.
Before arriving on island, one unique, “must do” thing I’d found was the Madeira toboggan ride. Soooo… Day 3 revolved around that plan and what a day it was!
After enjoying a cappuccino in a little downtown alley, we took the Teleférico do Funchal (cable car) up the hill to Monte to explore the Monte Palace Tropical Garden. The grounds were stunning, with paths winding every which way. We saw a display of African stone carvings, statues of everything from angels to lions to an army of samurai. There were koi ponds and waterfalls, flamingos and swans, giant hydrangeas and even a little Maderian wine tasting.
And then… Off to the Carreiros do Monte!
The fastest way down the hill was (and is) with the Carreiros do Monte - the traditional basket sledge toboggan ride. Starting back in the early 19th century, people used the toboggans as a form of transportation. Now it’s just FUN! From the end of the ride, down the rest of the way back to Funchal, was a steep walk down a narrow street lined with beautiful old houses and vibrant flowers.
Over lunch, we decided to drive to the third highest peak on the island - Pico do Areeiro - to catch the sunset. The drive up was intense, with a narrow winding road and a manual transmission Fiat that could barely get out of 1st gear. We climbed through city streets, then a forested area, then through the clouds to the peak at 1,818 meters elevation. We walked out onto the path between Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo where we could gaze deep down into the valley below, as well as far out to the horizon covered in clouds as the sun said its goodbye.
Day 4, we decided to drive around to the northeast side of the island and checkout the Casas Tipicas de Santana (little traditional Viking homes). They were cute, but little more than a tourist stop, so we headed back along the coast in search of something different. A random right turn took us to the Faial Bathing Complex - a sea water swimming pool right next to the ocean - where we met a family of pretty gray and white cats.
Next stop was the little seaside town of Porto da Cruz. We parked and almost immediately came upon a little bar that we thought might be a good place to enjoy a glass of Porto. The owner didn’t speak a lick of English and our Portuguese is basically limited to “por favor” and “obrigado” (please and thank you), but a lovely Brazilian lady translated for us, determining that while no Porto was available, the vino locale and tuna dish were very good. When we paid the bill, it was 1,40 euros for the two glasses of wine and no charge for the tuna. We paid 2 euros and I’m not sure who was more touched by the exchange, the proprietor or us.
As we walked through the town, we discovered the Piscina do Porto da Cruz - another, beautiful saltwater pool. With just a little urging, Todd went for a swim. It seemed safe enough with families swimming, but I still opted to stay dry, not yet over my fear from the experience in Cascais. And… Of course, the power of the ocean struck again, sending Todd into a spectacular somersault. He got up smiling, but my heart took awhile to calm.
Sitting at one of the little cafés next to the pool and rocky beach, we enjoyed a little meal and watched as the tide started coming in. So much power and beauty rolled into one.
With one last day left on the island, we had to get in a good hike. So, we headed off toward the west coast and the 25 Fontes trail. I’d read that it was mostly flat and an easy-moderate trail, so it seemed like a good choice for a relaxing day. Haha! The truth was, it was 6 miles with a LOT of ups and downs, narrow little trails, and 1,300 ft of climbing. But it was SO worth it!
Along the way, we randomly found The Rabaçal Nature Spot Cafe and grabbed a sandwich and a couple of Portuguese egg tarts (my favorite Maderian treat!) for a picnic lunch. Running alongside much of the trail was a levada (aqueduct) of crystal clear water running downhill. The actual 25 Fontes Falls was a cove with a central waterfall, surrounded by other little falls coming through crevices in the rock wall. The pool at the bottom was a beautiful turquoise color. It was easy to understand why it’s such a popular destination for visitors.
Later, we stopped into the Grapes & Bites Wine House for a glass of wine on our way to dinner. This turned into a Portuguese wine tasting with the local sommelier, a lovely charcuterie tray of local meats and cheeses, and a slow dance to our wedding song played spontaneously by the live pianist. Such a sweet way to spend our last night in Madeira.
Next stop… Madrid.
One of the things I like best about traveling is the many people we meet along the way. While on the island, we met a nice couple from London who, in their 80s, met as country dance partners. I connected on the plane with a kind lady from Estonia, who grew up in Ohio (my Midwest neighbor) and we continue to keep in touch through social media. And we talked with several young people now living on island, dreaming big dreams for their future. There was the young server from Venezuela who is working and learning English so he can travel to the U.S. next year (he was so excited because we were the first two Americans he’d ever met!) and a young man from Nepal who has been learning the hospitality field, hoping to someday soon open his own restaurant.
We all have a story, and I love it when people feel safe and inspired to share theirs with us. If you have a story to share, I’d love to hear it! Reach out and say hello.
Things to do, Places to go:
Teleférico do Funchal
(cable car)
Carreiros do Monte (toboggan ride)
Catch a sunset at Pico do Areeiro
Take a swim at Piscina do Porto da Cruz or the Faial Bathing Complex
Hike the 25 Fontes trail in Rabaçal
Restaurants we liked:
Typical Madeiran foods and drinks to try:
Bolo do caco
Portuguese Meat Skewers
Portuguese Egg Tarts
Poncha
Nikita Madeira