Welcome to Madeira, Portugal!
Todd loves island life. In fact, our very first trip together was to the island of Saint Martin in the Caribbean. So it’s no wonder that Madeira captured his attention when planning our vacation for 2023.
Technically part of Portugal, Madeira is an island situated in the Atlantic Ocean, roughly 300 miles off the coast of Morocco. A one-hour flight from Lisbon, Madeira felt like a world apart. Lisbon was gray and rainy, Madeira was warm and tropical. In one trip, we experienced the best of both worlds.
Where to stay
Funchal is the capital of Madeira and the perfect place to stay while on the island. Not only is the airport just a short drive from Funchal, but there’s a lot to do in and around the capital city. Also, if you choose to rent a car, you can easily access other parts of the island from there.
After landing on Madeira – an adventure worthy of applause due to its notably short runway – we checked into our home-away-from home for the week, Pestana Vila Lido Madeira Ocean Hotel. This resort was about a 2-mile walk to the heart of downtown, but being off the beaten path, we enjoyed quite mornings and nights listening to the waves.
Our room had a kitchenette where would could prepare breakfast and snacks, as well as a balcony patio with an ocean-view where we enjoyed our morning coffee and late-night glasses of port. Other resort amenities included:
- Sauna and outdoor pool with poolside bar
- On-site restaurant
- Lounge/bar that offered happy hour in the evenings
There are a lot of other resorts – big and small – closer to the downtown area or, if you prefer something more quaint and private, check out the many VRBO options.
[Click on images to enlarge]
Getting around Madeira
While we like to walk, getting anywhere on the island, outside of Funchal, requires more than a walk so it’s a good idea to rent a car.
A bit of advice… Driving on Madeira is an adventure itself. One day we putted in first gear, slowly up the steep, winding road to Pico do Arieiro, not sure we’d make it. Another day we were dodging cows and cars and buses.
That said, I’m so glad we decided to brave the island roads. There’s a lot to see and do in Funchal, but there’s even more in other parts of the island that you don’t want to miss.
Things to do on Madeira
Catamarans & marine wildlife
Our first full day on island, we decided to embrace the beautiful weather and take an Eco-Friendly Catamaran Dolphin and Whale Watching tour on the Atlantic Ocean. It must have a been a good day, because we were blessed with the company of some bottlenose dolphins, a couple of bryde whales, and a pod or two of pilot whales!
Cabo Girão Skydeck views
Head along the southern coast of Madeira to the Cabo Girão Skydeck. Oh, the views! Standing on a clear deck, looking 589 meters straight down a cliff, is no joke. The day we were there, the sky was a beautiful blue with wispy white clouds and the ocean seemed to go on forever.
After Cabo Girão, drive down to Câmara de Lobos – a little fishing village – and wander around the shops and cafes.
- We saw the Titanic (a little dingy anchored in the cove)
- Todd terrorized me by climbing up the lava rock wall, tempting Poseidon and the ocean waves (for the backstory to this reference, read our post about Cascais)
- And we found a cute little alleyway filled with cafes and recycled art
Cable car up | Toboggan down
Before arriving on the island, one unique, “must do'” thing I’d found was the Madeira toboggan ride. Soooo… Day 3 revolved around that plan and what a day it was!
After enjoying a cappuccino in a little downtown alley, we took the Teleférico do Funchal (cable car) up the hill to Monte to explore the Monte Palace Tropical Garden. The grounds were stunning, with paths winding every which way. We saw a display of African stone carvings, statues of everything from angels to lions to an army of samurai. There were koi ponds and waterfalls, flamingos and swans, giant hydrangeas and even a little Maderian wine tasting.
And then… Off to the Carreiros do Monte!
The fastest way down the hill was (and is) with the Carreiros do Monte – the traditional basket sledge toboggan ride. Starting back in the early 19th century, people used the toboggans as a form of transportation. Now it’s just FUN! From the end of the ride, down the rest of the way back to Funchal, is a steep walk down a narrow street lined with beautiful old houses and vibrant flowers.
A sunset above the clouds
Hiking on Madeira is a must. And a sunset above the clouds from one of Madeira’s highest peaks add to the splendor.
The drive to Pico do Arieiro is intense. The manual transmission Fiat we rented could barely get out of 1st gear going up the steep, winding road to the peak.
The road to Pico do Arieiro climbs first through city streets, then a forested area, then through the clouds to the peak at 1,818 meters elevation. From the trailhead, you can walk out onto the path that leads between Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo. From the trail, you can gaze deep down into the valley below, as well as far out to the horizon covered in clouds as the sun says its goodbye. It was easily one of the most beautiful sunsets we’ve experienced.
Viking homes and swimming pools
On the northeast side of the island is Casas Tipicas de Santana (little traditional Viking homes). This is a quaint tourist destination showcasing a piece of Madeira’s history, but it’s little more than a tourist stop. Touring the casas doesn’t take long.
Heading back toward Funchal, stop at the Faial Bathing Complex. The complex features:
- a sea water swimming pool right next to the ocean
- go-kart track
- children’s play area
- sunbathing terraces
- and a multi-sport pavilion
You might even meet the family of gray and white cats who live there!
A little farther down the coast is the seaside town of Porto da Cruz.
We parked and almost immediately came upon a little bar we thought might be a good place to enjoy a glass of port. As it turned out, the owner didn’t speak a lick of English and our Portuguese is basically limited to “por favor” and “obrigado” (please and thank you). Thankfully, a lovely Brazilian lady also visiting Porto da Cruz translated for us, determining that while no port was available, the vino locale and tuna dish were very good. When we paid the bill, it was 1,40 euros for the two glasses of wine and no charge for the tuna. We paid 2 euros and I’m not sure who was more touched by the exchange, the proprietor or us.
Walking through the town, you’ll come to the Piscina do Porto da Cruz – another, beautiful saltwater pool. The pool itself is calm and family-friendly, but beware of the ocean waves just on the other side of the wall. They can crash up unexpectedly with great force.
Alongside the pools and rocky beach are several cafés where you can enjoy a meal and watch as the tide starts coming in. So much power and beauty rolled into one.
Hike the 25 Fontes trail
Another hike well worth taking is the 25 Fontes trail. We’d read that it was mostly flat and an easy-moderate trail, so it seemed like a good choice for a relaxing day. The truth is, the trail is 6 miles roundtrip with a LOT of ups and downs, narrow trails, and 1,300 ft of climbing. But it is SO worth it!
Running alongside much of the trail is a levada (aqueduct) of crystal clear water running downhill. The actual 25 Fontes Falls is a cove with a central waterfall, surrounded by smaller falls coming through crevices in the rock wall. The pool at the bottom is a beautiful turquoise color making it easy to understand why it’s such a popular destination for visitors.
Along the way, stop at The Rabaçal Nature Spot Cafe and grab a sandwich and Portuguese egg tarts for a picnic at the falls.
Where & what to eat
Traditional foods in Funchal
Take some time to wander the cute cobblestone streets of Old Town Funchal and make a point to try some local food and drinks:
- Order Bolo do caco (a typical Portuguese bread with garlic butter) with any meal
- Savor sweet gelato to cool off on a warm afternoon
- Sip a flight of poncha – a strong and fruity drink, typically made with aguardente de cana (sugarcane brandy) or rum agricole (rum made from fresh sugar cane juice), honey, sugar and freshly squeezed citrus juices
- Try black scabbard fish – an island specialty, cooked many different ways. For example: served with passion fruit and banana sauce, or fried with potatoes and polenta
- Dine on espetadas – Madeira meat on a stick. These are a traditional dish featuring chunks of meat seasoned then grilled on a skewer, served hanging from a hook
In Câmara de Lobos, try nikita – another drink native to Madeira. This one is lighter and sweeter than poncha. Originally created in Câmara de Lobos in 1985, nikita is made by mixing fresh pineapple, vanilla (or pineapple) ice cream, white wine and beer.
Wine tasting & charcuterie
Grapes & Bites Wine House in Funchal is a great place to stop in for wine tasting and charcuterie. The restaurant features patio seating and an in-house sommelier to help guide your selections.
Overall impressions of Madeira
One of the things we like best about traveling is the many people we meet along the way. Madeira’s residents come from all over the world, as do its visitors. While on the island, we met:
- a couple from London who, in their 80s, met as country dance partners
- a kind lady from Estonia, who grew up in Ohio (our Midwest neighbor)
- several young people now living on island, dreaming big dreams for their future
- There was a young server from Venezuela working and learning English so he can travel to the U.S. (he was so excited because we were the first two Americans he’d ever met!)
- And a young man from Nepal who learning the hospitality field, hoping to someday open his own restaurant
We all have a story, and we love it when people feel safe and inspired to share theirs with us. If you have a story to share, we’d love to hear it!
Reach out, say hello and tell us about your favorite place to wander.